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First off, some fucker stole my camera. I left it in a dry bag while dipping in a hot spring. I've tried to compensate with stock photography. See if you can spot the difference.


So, I made my way with little drama from San Jose to Fortuna.


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Oh, except for the bus crash. Actually it was surprisingly gentle. More a sharp brake followed by a meaty "clunk" as we slid into the back of a 4x4 in front.

Fortunately no-one was hurt.

I actually have to really give it to the Costa Rican authorities and the bus company. Within half an hour, police were there measuring the scene, and we were on a replacement bus. The fact that they can do all this for a few dollars even for cross-country trips is just mind blowing (take note shitty UK public transport, Bristol especially).

Anyway, met a couple of nice Jewish girls (it's OK - I'm part Jewish,  I can say that) on the bus from Houston, Texas, so I've had some people to hang out with.

Fortuna is on the touristy end of things but nice vibe. Quite a young crowd which is both good and bad.

Anyway, the first full day (8th Aug) was a long one. I started off quite hungover (see previous paragraph), and proceeded to hike up a mountain called Cerro Chato.

This was awesome but pretty gruelling. I swear the guide said it would be "a couple of hours". It was actually 3 hours up, and one hour down. But it was so worth it. Inside the "peak" was a lagoon. Utterly, utterly beautiful. Cue obligatory John/Waterfall photo.

We then stopped for brief lunch before we were off for a second hike. This time, we ascended up to near the major volcano in the area - the Arenal Volcano. It's illegal (and insane) to climb the volcano, but you get some stunning views. It's currently not so active, but a couple of years ago it would be spouting lava daily, and in the 60's there was a very big eruption that killed an amount of people in the local area (you want more accurate details? Shut up. What am I, Wikipedia?).

Here I am taking a picture of it on my mobile phone:

Then we stopped off at a hot spring which was lovely, although I sustained Johnwooditis related graze on my back. Mmm seepy. Then more dinner and back home in bed by 10pm. Awesome.

Today (9th August) was a day of chilling out for me. I bid farewell to my Houston friends as they go off to Monteverde (been there, done than).

I then went to get my haircut. On reflection, the previous do was utterly shit.

Now it looks a lot better.

Enjoying the pampering, I decided on a whim to go for a massage (only $25!).

Yeah, I know, I know. No matter how "new age" I am, I still feel dodgy going for a massage, like maybe I'm doing something wrong. Thanks Christian upbringing! Anyway, this was a totally legit and very professional massage, great for my tired muscles.

On the way out I suddenly recalled that one of the choices was called "Angel Hands" and was $50. The woman described this as a "harder" massage. I'm not making this shit up. It was only afterwards when I suddenly thought it sounded strange.

So, look, this is a genuine question from a naive traveller. Is this a "happy endings" thing? I mean this place was on the main tourist strip and was reasonably plush. Plus it was opposite the church and this is a conservative Catholic country. It must just be a poor translation right? Right!?

I then got a chance to do some writing, which was frankly awesome fun. If any professional author says they have a hard job, please punch them in the face for me. I would love to do this for a career.